Clothing for an Italian woman in the 1460’s

I need to make a wardrobe of clothing for an Italian woman in the 1460’s. Ideally from one region of Italy, given the variety of fashion, but I will have to start where I can.

Overview

As ever, FAMALEONIS has a great overview article on women’s clothing in this period here

Italian Fashion in the Fifteenth Century

I am referring to the book ‘La Moda Italiana Nel XV Secolo’ by Paola Fabbri. It’s a great overview that is well worth 5 euro for an e-book copy. Just go and buy it now.

Church of St Mary of Truth, Viterbo

The main overarching source will be the women painted by Lorenzo Da Viterbo in the Church of St Mary of Truth, Viterbo.

There is general information about the cultural treasures of the church here

I am deeply grateful to Andrea Carloni for these photographs of the paintings:

Guarnello

This article by Eugenio Larosa about the Guarnello apron dress is very useful for describing a potential cotton over-dress for the outfit

https://www.enionline.it/guarnello-guardaroba-quattrocento-italiano

The Drunkenness of Noah by Benozzo Gozzoli

The Drunkenness of Noah by Benozzo Gozzoli is regarded by Eugenio Larosa to depict two guarnelli worn by grape pickers. This heavily damaged work is a key source, so I find my self flicking between several photos of it in various states.

https://www.meisterdrucke.uk/fine-art-prints/Joseph-Edward-Southall/1132549/Detail-from-the-Drunkenness-of-Noah,-after-Benozzo-Gozzoli-(detail).html

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a3/The_Vintage_and_Drunkenness_of_Noah%2C_Camposanto_%28Graveyard%29%2C_Pisa..jpg

https://www.wikiart.org/en/benozzo-gozzoli/the-vintage-and-drunkenness-of-noah-1484

Progress

Camicia

Based on the sources above, I have completed one voluminous linen smock, gathered into a square neckline that is deep in the front and back to match depictions of Gamurre

Gamurra

I am planning a wool gamurra based on Church of St Mary of Truth, Viterbo with a high waist, straight sleeves and a square neckline at front and rear

Guarnello

I have under construction a yellow cotton guarnello, based on what I learned from the gathered camicia and the depictions highlighted by Mr Larosa in his article.

Veil

I have made a D shaped veil that just touches the shoulders, per depictions in the Church of St Mary of Truth, Viterbo.

Mantello

Several ladies in the Church of St Mary of Truth, Viterbo have a large ankle-length mantle, I believe known as a mantello. If my intended victim will actually wear it, I will make one.